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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee well-known award-winning establishments. However, nestled near the top among these food giants is a modest salonu found in a distant part of north London.

An Shocking Honour

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has made the owners totally surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest place securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.