Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a international community of cities cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – hidden treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their children are reluctant to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to learn these stories and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
